Jezebel's seasonal study of visible diversity at NYFW is out - and it doesn't look great.
The problem is that while there might have been nominally more models of color this season than last, all of the same models were booking the shows, a problem we've noted before that seems to have gotten worse. Which is great for those particular workers but indicates a reliance on the same faces over and over again, and an inability to open the doors to all models of color.Of the 142 shows out of the 184 that showed at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2014*, there were 4637 looks. Of those close to 5,000 looks, around 80 percent were modeled by white women. (80 percent. That's a number that, if you look at the charts, we're growing familiar with.) Fewer than 1,000 looks were given to women who were not white, mostly black and asian women, with some non-white Latina women sneaking in there. Women of other ethnicities, like Middle Eastern women, were barely seen.
Unfortunately, there were plenty of designers who featured a distressingly low number of models of color, like Marchesa, Joie, Kate Gallagher, Sass & Bide, Wes Gordon, Assembly, Theyskens' Theory, Yigal Azrouel, Band of Outsiders, Victoria Beckham, Jen Kao, Jill Stuart and Lacoste. These designers often had models of color showing between zero and three looks a presentation. Many boosted their numbers only because of a select black or asian model who wore more than one look.
Read the full report here.